History of No-Mars Kennels Inc
As a young boy growing up in South Texas (next to the Mexican Border) my father had Coon Dogs which he did not feed, and none of us were allowed to feed them, they had to fin for themselves,( back then our closes neighbor was 2 miles away) so they would be gone for days at a time searching for food, some times they would bring a freshly killed Rabbit and place it on the back porch for us, our next evening meal, you guessed it “Rabbit” and it taste just like Chicken!!
We moved to Ontario California in 1953 where I really missed the hunting and the dogs, after high school I spent 6 years the Army National Guard boy was that a different kind of hunting, I made the rank of Sergeant E-5 before leaving. I got married and was working as a Machinist, when I was asked to go hunting with some friends at work, they had German Shorthaired Pointers and hunted Pheasant, Quail I wes invited to go on a hunt with them, I went and it was almost as good as hunting in Texas, I was amazed at how well the dogs worked on game, I had to have one. My first GSP was a dog I bought for $75.00 because the breeders thought the dog would never make a Show dog as they showed their dogs as well as hunted them, I was told that he was too big to show but would hunt good, ok. lets make a long story short, He was a AKC champion at 16 months of age was field trained by me and either won or placed in every field event I entered him in, His name was CH. Vaugndacers KoKo.
In 1971 I attended Vet school at North west College in Pomona California to learn to be a vet assistant, after graduating I had enough education to take care of my own dogs such as docking Tails and du-claw’s, minor surgery’s and first aid.
I learned to handle dogs in the Show ring from a profesinol Handler, and worked with Field trial ‘ers for some 5 years. in 1972 I met Bodo Winterhault who was a German Versatile dog trainer who showed us field trial ers how we should be training our versatile hunting dogs such as Tracking, Pointing, and Water work on Ducks, this was the true test for hunting dogs that was developed in Germany many years ago when developing the breed, I was very impressed and joined NAVHDA. In 1973 I left Southern California and moved to Corvallis Oregon I purchased 4 acres of land and built a Custom home and a small bording Kennel, I tested my Pups with NAVHDA and if they could pas the Naturial Ability test then they would be tested in the AKC Shows to prove their Conformation then at the age of 2 years The Hips are OFA certified and the Eyes are tested with CERF for defects.
I was determined to produce a quality GSHP thru testing both Show (AKC) and Field (NAVHDA) as of today I have some 98 AKC Show Champions, of which 85% of them were NAVHDA Field tested and Prized as Breeding stock prior to going into the show ring, I servied as President of the German Shorthaired Pointer club of Oregon, and I was President of the Columbia Chapter of NAVHDA for more than 18 years. By Field testing with NAVHDA and Conformation testing with the AKC show ring I was able to produce a quality GSHP that not only looked great but could out hunt some of the best dogs around this was obtained by breeding the Picks of litters that excelled in all of their field test and the show ring and were OFA (Hips certified to be free from defects) and the Eyes were CERF Certified (Eyes were found not to have Cataracts or any other genetic defect) this way as a breeder I could feel good knowing that when I sells a pup it has the best chance to perform better than is expected from their new owner.
Today 10-12-06 I enjoy getting letters and many emails telling me how much people are happy with the dog they got from me.
NAVHDA TEST INFORMATION
SCROLL DOWN TO FIND THE NATURAL ABILITY AND UTILITY TEST
No-Mars Kennels Inc. German Shorthaired Pointers
How to ENTER a dog in the NAVHDA test
What you will need to enter your dog in a NAVHDA field test.
Go to the NAVHDA HOME PAGE LINK: http://www.navhda.org/ you will find all the information you need to register your dog with NAVHDA , find the closest Chapter to you and test dates to run your dog.
Remember to run in the Natural Ability Test your dog needs to be under the age of 16 months in order to prize, you can run after 16 months but it will only be for evaluation.
“No-Mars Pre test & FUN DAY & POTLUCK”
There may be a No-Mars Pre NAVHDA test fun day for all No-Mars Dogs, and a Pot luck here at Leo’s home at 11490 Bass LN Caldwell ID 83605 Cell 208-562-7373 some time in May starting at 8:30 AM Ladies bring your favorite dish , we will need Hamburger meat and buns, drinks, and some volunteers to cook, misc, price will be $65.00 which will include one Pheasant and 2 quail, R.S.V.P with your check, Birds available for an additional cost. We will run your dog and you through a short N/A test and give you home work to do before the actual test.
If you are interested in coming to one of these work days let me know
What is the NAVHDA natural ability test
As most of you know the German Shorthaired Pointer is a versatile hunting Dog, which means it should be able to Swim like a lab, Point like an English pointer, and track like a Blood hound, What hunter could ask for more! NAVHDA is one of the only true test in the USA that test for these hereditary traits, that took the Germans some 80 + years to perfect by controlled breeding and testing (Field and Confirmation)
“First let me tell you what I do with my pups berore you get them”
At birth: Before your No-Mars pup left the kennel he or she had the following exposure:
At 2-3 days old we cut their tails only, the due claws are left on as they are the dogs thumbs, At 5 days old we start stressing them to prepare them for training. At 3 weeks they are Wormed and repeated in 7-10 days.
At 4 weeks: their Eyes are open and they are learning to walk. At this age we take a disk cloth tie it in a knot and take each pup one at a time and tease them and throw it about 8″ from their Nose. They will run and grab the towel, we praise them (good boy come come good boy or girl), coaxing them to come to us with the towel. The next day we throw the towel 12″ and repeat the command, fetch. This goes on until the towel can be thrown 3’to6′.
At 6 weeks: they get their first Shot (Parvo only). During this week we use a 5′ Diameter pen, put a Live Quail or Chakur in it and take one pup at a time place them in with the with the game and give them 3 minutes, if they run from it, they get spayed or neutered, if they chase and grab at it they are hunting quality, if they grab it and hold on even if the bird is slapping them in the face they will be breeding quality, and will have the highest scores.
At 7 weeks they are going for walks in the woods and I shoot a blank pistol over them. If any show signs of being gun shy they are spayed or neutered, also at this time they learn to stay with us and watch us in the field.
At 8 weeks old they are shipped to their new owners, (maybe you.)
When you 1st get your pup, you need to take him to the vet for a complete check up and ask your vet what does the pup need to keep healthy in your area. Different health problems in different areas. Be sure to ask how soon can the pup go for walks in the fields, the sooner the better, but remember no harsh treatment, and if you are playing fetch use a soft item such as a stuffed toy. Make sure all plastic noses or eyes are removed. An important things to remember, when you get your new No-Mars pup and it’s in the house and it grabs something it shouldn’t have don’t run at him yelling NO NO!!, just say” come come “and when it gets to you just take it, praise the dog and put the item out of the dogs reach.
“HOW TO PREPARE FOR THE NAVHDA NATURAL ABILITY TEST”
A 20 minute field search with at least 5 game bird in the field, the
handler walks along with 3 judges saying little or nothing to the puppy unless asked to, the dog is shot over twice to insure it is not gun-shy, The
pup should stay with its handler, be within gun range most of the time and must be using its nose, and searching cover where game would
be. The dog must find game and point staunchly, usually the handler is asked to flush the game or pick up your pup. If you flush the game and your pup chases it it will show that it has a strong desire for the game,
Take him to a place where you are sure to find game, always release him in to the wind. Do not interfere in anyway. As soon as the dog shows interest, praise and encourage him. Repeat this until you see that the dog wants to find the game. Once your dog is interested in finding game and you feel he is going out far enough for you personal taste, turning in the opposite direction, most all of my pups will turn and come in front of you. This shows that they are hunting for you. Do the same when he is getting too far left, right or ahead, but try to walk into the wind when possible. Use your whistle and voice as sparingly as possible, and only when you are sure the your dog can hear you and is not preoccupied with something much more interesting. Remember this was developed in your pup before it left the kennel, if you have a pup that is a little too much for you, do not try to correct him by doubling the volume of your voice and the use of your whistle. Most hard handling or uncooperative dogs can be traced to this mistake. Instead of hollering, put a 20′ check cord on the dog and let him drag it. It will slow him down. Instead of chasing him down turn away from him and hide. He will soon learn to look for you. The time to blow the whistle and praise him is when he gets close enough to you that you know he’s coming all the way in. Never let your your dog get so interested in game that he grows disinterested in you, or order him around so much that he loses all interest in hunting. While out working the youngster look for a moment when he is not searching, then call him in and praise him. Alternate releasing him and leashing him up after you call him. When leashed, this is a good time to teach the dog heel. Let him stand or sit while on the leash for a couple minutes. Then release him with two blasts on the whistle or hunt-em-up. Try to release him into the wind. Calling him in occasionally to spend some time close to you will help introduce the dog to the importance of cooperation.
This phase you and your pup are placed in a blind or out of sight, the three judges are usually in a field that has about 2-5″ of grass that leads to a tree line the distance can vary from 75′-300′ or more, the judges will pluck some of the breast or wing feathers form the bird and place them on the ground, rub the bird on the feathers and then release the bird hoping it will run in a direction that is cross wind. When the bird gets into the tree line or into cover you are asked to bring the pup up to the beginning of the track, laid by the bird. You are told which direction the bird went in and how to release your dog. You can take about 10 steps to get the pups nose on the feathers and head it in the right direction then you must stand still and pray; follow the track, please follow the track. Your pups job is to prove that it has a good enough nose to follow the track. He does not have to retrieve the bird.
A good way to get the your dog interested in tracking is to select an area with 2″-4″of grass (do not run a track on fresh cut grass)have someone hold the pup on a 6′ lead You get in front of the dog let it smell the bird then back away about 5 ‘. Pull out the flight feathers from one side of the bird. Tie a 3′ cloth fly fishing line under each wing of the bird then tie another 10′ line to the middle of the first line. Rub the bird on the feathers on the ground and walk it away from the dog trying to walk onto an area where the dog can not see where you are going. Then find a place where you can place the bird in cover and tie the line to the cover so the bird can’t get away. Then go back to the pup using a different rout so there is as little human scent as possible on the track. Put a 20’ check cord on the pup start out by holding the pup fairly short, and then while he is getting interested in the scent, slowly give him the full length of the check cord do not run. Try to keep the pup calm. Now, follow the dog while praising and coaxing him. Try to avoid him catching the bird. If the bird hides and holds for the dog, caution the dog and hold him back with the lead, have your helper flush the bird, but keep the pup in the same place. Have your helper restrain the bird and let the dog smell it. Then pick up the pup and walk away in a different direction, repeat this several times until the pup has the idea. Now that the pup knows what is expected of Him. Repeat the exercise 2 days later. Use a fresh bird and turn the bird loose instead of walking it.
Pointing is best done by taking your dog into fields where you know your pup will find game, since the dog can’t catch the game it will soon learn to point. If you do not have access to fields with game you can purchase a release trap, buy some Pigeons when the pup gets within 20′ of the trap release the bird this may take 3-30 times but the pup will eventually point with class. If you cant afford a release trap or find pigeons do some yard training. He should know the command “Whoa-Stay” as an order to stop and stand until released. Use this command only when the dog has been well prepared for it and knows what it means, tale a game gird, place it in cover where the pup cannot see it then bring the pup up wind towards the game when the pup gets within 10-15′ from the game try to get the pup on point use the command “Whoa-Stay”, I use” Whoa-stay” because “Whoa” sounds too much like “NO” As soon as he points, brush the pups tail up into a 12 o’clock position. Do not stop brushing it until you pick the pup up and walk him away from the game. Remember not to holler at him as long as he stands. Only when he tried to move in an attempt to get the bird, raise you voice so that he knows that any further step means trouble. Depending on temperament (and not only that of the dog), some dogs learn easily while the more bold animals take longer. Most important of all is that the dog has a well pronounced natural pointing instinct that is worth while and a pleasure to develop. This is what makes hunting over a pointing dog such a spine tingling thrill.
The puppy is taken to a pond of swimming depth, the handler is asked to throw a bumper into the water and ask the pup to
retrieve it. This is a toughness test if the dog has fears it will not swim, the pup does not have to retrieve, but must swim twice, the judges
will then grade the dogs bite, coat, physical attributes.
Getting your pup in the water should not be difficult. Your No-Mars pup was retrieving before in left our kennel, you will get excellent results. After your pups permanent teeth are in take a 2″ Dia, X 12″ long White bumper or canvas bumper, in the back yard play fetch with the pup for 5-10 minutes per day when the pup only when the pup is retrieving to hand an enjoying it, take the pup to a shallow warm lake where you can walk in and call to the pup do this alone, if you have other people on the bank your pup will most likely stay with them, after the pup is use to the water go back to the shore tease the pup with the bumper then throw it about 6′ the first time then 10′ only do this about 3 to 5 times at a session. Other methods that can be used are allowing his owner while swimming, by jumping in after a thrown bumper, chasing a live duck or trying to catch up with an older dog that enjoys the water. These few hints should help the inexperienced handler, as well as the inexperienced dog., For the owner-handler, this test will help you know where to spend time working with your pup
The NAVHDA Utility Test
The Dog should be a veteran hunter, that is very obedient.
- Field search. A 30 minute field search(all on foot) Dog the handler and 3 judges, the dog must be in gun range most of the time, he must find game, point and hold study until after the game is shot & down,(broke to wing and shot) he is then asked by the handler to retrieve the game,he must go strait to the game, pick it up and bring it strait to the handlers hand.
- Search for the Duck: The dog is placed at the edge of a pond that usually has cattails and other vegetation growing in it, the dog is told to stay, you are given a gun and ask to fire shots, after a pause the judge ask that you send the dog, the dog must do a thorough search on the pond and banks looking for the duck (there no commands given to the dog during his search) he must prove that he can do a search.
- Retrieve of Duck: Must walk at heel through a heeling course that ends at the edge of a pond, where there are duck decoys, the dog is placed in a duck blind and told to stay the handler is given 2 blank shells and asked to go out of sight and fire them( the dog must not move from the blind, then you are asked to place the dog outside the blind and you tell him to stay then you are given a gun and asked to fire a shot when a duck is thrown from across the pond the dog can’t move through the shot and the fall of the duck after a moment the judge ask that you send the dog, he swim straight to the duck retrieve it to hand without dropping it.
- Retrieve of drag: A dead duck or pheasant that has been dead for 24 hours ( prime eating for a dog ) is taken to a field where some feathers are pulled and set on the ground then dragged some 500 steps and in the tree line where the game is placed so that when the dog goes in he can’t see his handler or anyone else he must not eat, chew, bury, or roll on it. He must pick it up and retrieve it to his handler’s hand…
Hussa was my 1st German Import I brought into the USA
(at 8 weeks old ) She was a perfect score prize”1″ in her Natural Ability Test, the Judges comments was that she was a 200 percent prize 1 Perfect score dog..
All of Hussa’s Litters (6) were qualified for Breeders awards.
Her name will appear in almost all of my Pedigree.